I recently did a motorbike trip to North Sikkim and got through the entire process of getting permits by myself. Learn How To Get North Sikkim Bike Permit – Step By Step Explained. There are lots of websites which contain outdated information and makes it confusing for the bike travelers about the permit process. In this post I will explain step by step about all you need to know for getting bike permits including where, how and when.
I found North Sikkim to be beautiful beyond my imagination. I have been doing quite a lot of bike trips across Northern India and particularly in the Himalayas. So far I have done two 5000km+ motorbike expedition and many 1000km+ motorbike trips some of which were also in Nepal and Vietnam. This time I choose Sikkim. This trip was going to be a total of around 2000km.
I have done trips to Darjeeling so decided to skip it this time and head to Gangtok after taking a stop in Kalimpong. I will skip the irrelevant details and keep this post specifically about getting permits for North Sikkim or East Sikkim and some additional tips. To start with I would like to tell you that forget about all the permit terms like Inner line Permit (ILP), Restricted Area Permit (RLP) etc as they will just confuse you and are of no use. Simply put you need a permit if you want to visit North Sikkim and East Sikkim. North Sikkim is shown below in Map. East Sikkim includes Tsomgo Lake, Baba Mandir, Nathula India-China Border, Zuluk – Old Silk road with beautiful hairpin bends.
Before you take a trip to Sikkim, take a look at possible route options which will facilitate and help you plan your road trip and journey. There are not many alternate routes in the mountain though.
Sikkim is a state with sensitive International Border particularly with China. The tourism in the North and East Part of Sikkim is highly regulated and monitored. If you have looked at the Sikkim Map you will understand how close are the North and East Part of Sikkim to China Border.
North Sikkim includes Road to Chungthang from Gangtok from where there are two separate roads for Lachen (leading to Gurudongmar Lake) and Lachung (leading to Yumthang Valley, Yumesamdong and Zero Point). Make sure you fill up your fuel tank in Chungthang as there were no petrol pumps further up on the way. The distance is not a lot but constant high altitude climb with take a toll on fuel efficiency of your motorbike. Roads are maintained by Border Roads Organization (BRO) and are mostly good except in high altitude. See map for reference. I will explain all the preparations needed for North Sikkim Trip in another post.
Gangtok itself is a small town surrounded by hills and situated on it’s slope. If you are good with your legs then you can just walk around from one place to another. For those who can’t, there are plenty of local taxis plying around in all directions. The main Taxi stand is called ‘Ranka’ taxi stand and is situated very close to the famous walking only road called MG Marg in Gangtok.
Earlier permits for North Sikkim and East Sikkim were issued at the Manan Bhavan, Gangtok. This information is old and most of the websites and blogs did not update new information which leaves most of the travelers and bikers confused. The permits are not issued at Manan Bhavan anymore. [Manan Bhawan was originally a cultural centre but has been standing in as an administrative complex now].
2018 onwards, All tourism related permits including bike permit is now issued at the Tourism Permit Office near MG Marg located in premise of Sikkim Public Service Commission. Take the stair downwards (from MG Road entrance) and you will find Tourism Permit Office. [Address: Sikkim Public Service Commission, Old Tourism Complex, M. G. Marg, Arithang, Gangtok]. Here is the link to exact location on Google Maps. Make sure that you apply for the permits a day in advance, keeping one day in hand to collect the permit and get all other formalities and inspection done on time. For example if you plan to leave on Wednesday then apply for permit on Monday itself.
Permit Officers in Gangtok are very helpful and polite with queries and explanation. You will not need any travel agent or middle-man at all. The process is very simple and you just need to follow the steps as I have explained below.
Original Documents that you need to keep with you while applying for North Sikkim and East Sikkim Permit are:
- Motorcycle Registration Certificate/Card.
- Valid Insurance Certificate for Motorcycle.
- Valid Pollution Certificate of Motorbike.
- Driving license of Rider.
- Valid Identity Proof for Indian Citizenship of Rider.
[Note: Aadhar Card is not accepted. Read explanation below]
- Valid Indian Citizenship Identity Proof Pillion/Co-rider.
- Two or Three Passport Size Color Photograph for both Rider and Pillion/Co-rider.
- If the bike is rented from Agency then letter of authorization from that registered agency.
Take three sets of Photocopy of all these original documents along with passport size color photographs and group them into three separate sets. Take all these documents and go to the counter at Tourism Permit Office. Tell them that you need form for Motorbike Permit. They will give you a blank form in which you need to mention the details asked. You will have to fill in your Name, Co-riders name, ID card details, Motorbike Details and Model of Bike, intended number of days for visit and the proposed route. In our case, the pillion only had his Aadhar card with him. The permit officer refused to entertain it as valid citizenship proof as the matter is still pending in Supreme Court. He had to get his voter ID card whatsapped and we took a print and then photocopy of it and applied. It worked. However make sure you carry either a copy of your Passport or Voter ID card with you. Aadhar Card, Pan Card or Driving License is not a valid citizenship proof.
Note that you must return before your permit expires. You can add an extra day in the permit as it will be safe option. A minimum of 3 days permit is required to visit North Sikkim route all the way up to Gurudongmar Lake and then Zero Point. So apply for at least 3 days permit. However I would advise you to add an extra day as it doesn’t cost you anything and gives you flexible option along with peace of mind. So write 4 days in the form. The price of Permit form is INR 10 only. Yes, Ten Rupees Only. However for East Sikkim which around INR 200 is to be paid as permit charge. There is no additional charge for north Sikkim permit. The data is from 2018 and should be rechecked in forums to get the latest information.
After you fill the form, submit it back to the counter along with two set of all the photocopy that i mentioned earlier and two photographs each of rider and co-rider/pillion if any. Since the route is remote and wild they (usually) don’t allow solo-riders. You must join along the group of other riders who come to submit permit form or should have a pillion rider. Solo-riders in expedition groups are allowed.
After you submit the form along with all photocopy and photograph, you will be asked to come and collect it the next day in morning. Some websites claim that it will be done the same day if you submit before 11am is incorrect information and was valid for older permit center at Manan Bhavan.
After applying for permit we went to the counter the next day morning and we were asked to come back at 2pm after lunch. At 2pm we got the initial permit which is a Yellow Page (along with a set of all photocopy documents and our passport size photograph) with all the details of the journey and the travelers/bikers. It looks like this :
The Tourist Officer(Permit) will guide you for next step but sometimes it gets confusing with so many documents so I have explained the next procedure below.
There is a counter right next to this which will issue your final permit. The counter opens at 4pm in the evening and everyone rushes to get their final permit done for the next day. This counter which is in same premise is of “Office of ADGP (Additional Director General of Police), CheckPost Branch, Gangtok”. There are two or three small windows which is clearly marked for Permits for North Sikkim and Permit for East Sikkim. Note that even the normal tourists going on an organized tour to the North Sikkim or East Sikkim have to apply for permit either by themselves or usually through agents for individual permit. So the counter sometimes gets crowded. But don’t panic as the crowd clears very fast.
Stand in queue and wait for your turn or just put your paper that you got from previous permit counter on the relevant window and they will keep it below the bunch of other applicants. When your turn comes, the police officer will gently shout your name. They may or maynot ask some question like do you know the route, Is your motorbike fit enough etc for your safety. We saw that they made one family write a written application as they were traveling with their own vehicle (Mahindra Scorpio – 2 Wheel Drive) to North Sikkim as the police personnel did not want to send them at his own risk as the final permit clearance is with him. Ultimately the police just ensures that your journey should be safe and smooth.
Once this process is done, which is usually in just 30 minutes, you will get final permit which looks like this:
So now keep this white permit paper from CheckPost Branch along with Yellow Permit Paper from Tourism Permit Branch that you got earlier and take at least 5 copies of them. You will have to submit a photocopy at various checkpoints on the route. Also they will stamp it as you cross checkposts. Keep original with you along with a set of all the documents and photograph stapled on it. While returning back the last check post will keep the original with them.
Checklist and Route Option for North Sikkim:
When you go to North Sikkim follow this route Gangtok>Chungthang>Stay overnight in Lachen> Leave 5am-6am for Gurudongmar Lake > Back to Lachen by 3-4pm> Leave for Lachung > Stay overnight in Lachung> Leave early morning for Yumthang, Yumesamdong, Zero Point > Back to Lachung > Stay overnight in Lachung > Leave next day for Gangtok. Do not deviate from standard route as entire North Sikkim is sensitive area with huge Armed Forces presence and deviating from main route is against the law. Fill up your fuel tank in Chungthang. Carry additional 5 litre in hard plastic bottle if needed. Bottled water is not allowed in North Sikkim. Carry reusable water bottle. The entire route is full of huge waterfalls cascading on the roads and making is slippery at times so be careful. Wear proper riding boots or buy gumboots in gangtok itself. Respect laws and environment. Do not take photographs in Military Areas. Don’t ride in hurry. Food is expensive and usually tasteless in North Sikkim. Carry some cakes/breads/dry fruits and chocolates for yourself. Also keep essential medicines like Diamox (for altitude sickness). I am compiling an exhaustive as well as summary list for all you need to know before you travel to North Sikkim.
Earlier they used to provide six different envelops for various checkpoints but the paper work has been made efficient and only two main permits are needed. Many websites and blogs have not updated their information and is very confusing and misleading to the new travelers.
With Permits for North Sikkim and East Sikkim done, Also read about the other things that you should be preparing for this adventurous & beautiful trip.
Additional Read and Useful Links:-